Epic Watershapes

How Do I Get Rid Of Pool Algae?

Algae is one of the most common problems pool owners deal with. One day the water looks fine. A few days later it is green, cloudy, or has patches growing on the walls and floor. It can happen faster than most people expect, especially in warm weather. Florida pools are particularly prone to it because the combination of heat, sunlight, and humidity creates exactly the conditions algae needs to grow quickly. What starts as a slightly off-colour pool on a Monday can be a fully green swamp by the weekend if nothing is done about it.

The good news is that algae is treatable in most cases. It does take some effort and the right approach, but most pools can be cleared up within a few days if you follow the correct steps in the right order. This guide walks through why algae grows, how to identify which type you are dealing with, and exactly what to do to get rid of it and stop it from coming back.

Why Does Algae Grow in a Pool?

Why Does Algae Grow in a Pool

Algae spores are in the air and the environment all the time. They get into pools through wind, rain, debris, and even swimwear. The spores themselves are not the problem. The problem is when the conditions in the water allow them to grow.

Algae grows when:

  • Chlorine levels are too low to stop it
  • The pH is out of range, making chlorine less effective
  • Water is not circulating enough
  • There are shaded spots or dead zones where circulation is poor
  • The pool has not been brushed or cleaned in a while


Hot weather speeds things up. A pool that is fine on Friday can have a visible algae problem by Sunday if conditions are right. Summer is when most algae problems happen for this reason.

Types of Pool Algae

Not all algae looks the same. Knowing what type you are dealing with helps you treat it properly.

  • Green algae is the most common type. It turns the water green and cloudy, grows fast, and is the easiest to treat.
  • Yellow algae, sometimes called mustard algae, appears as yellowish or brownish patches on walls and floors, usually in shaded spots. It is harder to clear than green algae and can come back if the treatment is not thorough.
  • Black algae shows up as dark spots on pool surfaces, particularly in plaster or concrete pools. It has a protective outer layer that makes it resistant to chlorine and it almost always needs physical scrubbing alongside chemical treatment.
  • Pink algae is technically a bacteria rather than true algae. It appears as pinkish or white-pink patches and needs its own specific treatment to clear.

Step 1: Test the Water

Before you add anything to the pool, test the water. This tells you what you are working with.

You need to know:

  • pH level (should be between 7.4 and 7.6)
  • Chlorine level (free chlorine should be between 1 and 3 ppm normally)
  • Alkalinity (should be between 80 and 120 ppm)
  • Cyanuric acid level if you use a stabilised chlorine


pH is especially important. Chlorine works much less effectively when pH is too high. A lot of algae problems are made worse by the fact that the chlorine in the pool is not doing its job because the pH is off. Fix the pH first before you start adding extra chlorine.

Step 2: Brush the Pool

Before you shock the water, brush the entire pool. Walls, floor, steps, corners, behind ladders, around fittings. Everything. Brushing breaks up the algae and exposes it to the water so the chlorine can actually reach it. This matters especially for yellow and black algae which have protective layers. Skipping this step makes the treatment much less effective.

Use a stiff brush for plaster or concrete pools. Use a softer nylon brush for vinyl or fibreglass to avoid scratching the surface.

Step 3: Shock the Pool

Shocking means adding a large dose of chlorine to kill the algae. How much you need depends on the type and severity.

  • For green algae, use double the normal shock dose and aim for a free chlorine level of 10 to 30 ppm
  • For yellow algae, triple the normal dose
  • For black algae, use the highest recommended dose and expect to repeat the treatment
  • Use calcium hypochlorite shock where possible, pre-dissolved in a bucket of water before adding to the pool
  • Do it in the evening so sunlight does not degrade the chlorine before it can work
  • Keep the pump running throughout so the chlorine distributes evenly

Step 4: Run the Filter

Run the Filter

After shocking, keep the pump and filter running continuously for at least 24 hours, ideally longer. The filter is what physically removes the dead algae from the water. Without it running, the dead algae stays suspended and the pool stays cloudy.

Clean or backwash the filter during this period. As it captures algae it can get clogged and slow down. If you have a sand filter, adding a small amount of diatomaceous earth can help it catch finer particles.

Step 5: Vacuum the Pool

Once the algae starts dying off it will settle on the floor of the pool. Vacuum it out.

For heavy algae, vacuum to waste rather than through the filter if your system allows it. This means the dirty water goes straight out rather than back through the filter, which reduces the load on the filter and speeds up the clearing process. You will lose some water doing this so be prepared to top the pool up afterwards.

Step 6: Test and Balance Again

After treatment, test the water again. Shocking raises the chlorine level significantly and the pH can shift as well. Give it 24 to 48 hours and then test to see where things have settled. You may need to adjust pH, add stabiliser, or balance the alkalinity once the chlorine has come back down to a normal range.

The pool may stay cloudy for a day or two even after the algae is dead. That is normal. Keep the filter running and it will clear up.

What If the Algae Keeps Coming Back?

What If the Algae Keeps Coming Back

If you are treating the pool but algae keeps returning, there is usually an underlying cause.

Common reasons algae comes back include:

  • Consistently low chlorine levels, often from a stabiliser that is too high (over 80 ppm cyanuric acid makes chlorine much less effective)
  • A filter that is not running long enough each day
  • Poor circulation leaving dead spots in the pool
  • Equipment that needs servicing, like a pump that is not moving enough water
  • A surface that has become rough or pitted, giving algae somewhere to anchor


Rough or deteriorating pool surfaces are also worth looking at. Algae gets into small cracks and pits in plaster and becomes much harder to brush out. Whether the right fix is resurfacing or replastering depends on the condition of the existing surface. Poor circulation and ageing equipment are also common culprits and worth checking if the chemical side of things seems fine.

How to Prevent Algae

Once the pool is clear, keeping it that way is mostly about consistency.

  • Test the water at least twice a week in summer
  • Keep free chlorine between 1 and 3 ppm and pH between 7.4 and 7.6
  • Run the pump long enough each day to turn the water over completely, usually 8 to 12 hours depending on pool size
  • Brush the pool walls and floor weekly, especially corners and shaded spots
  • Clean the filter regularly
  • Shock the pool after heavy use, heavy rain, or any time chlorine drops unexpectedly. Florida’s hurricane season in particular can hit water chemistry hard after heavy rainfall


Algaecide can be used as a weekly preventive treatment. It is not a substitute for proper chlorine levels but it does add another layer of protection, particularly in summer.

A Green Pool Is Not the End of the World

Algae happens to most pool owners at some point, even careful ones. It usually just means a few conditions lined up at the wrong time. A hot week, a missed water test, a heavy rainstorm that diluted the chlorine. The key is catching it early. If the water looks slightly off or the walls feel a little slippery when you run your hand along them, that is the first sign. Act at that point rather than waiting for the pool to go fully green. Early algae can often be sorted with a chlorine adjustment and a good brush. A fully green pool takes days of shocking, filter cleaning, and vacuuming to clear. Regular testing, consistent chlorine levels, and a weekly wall brush will stop most algae problems from developing in the first place.

If algae keeps coming back despite doing everything right, something deeper is usually the cause. A deteriorating surface, poor circulation, an undersized pump, or ageing equipment can all make a pool harder to keep clean regardless of how consistent you are with chemicals. If you are in Boca Raton, West Palm Beach, Jupiter, or the surrounding areas and want someone to take a look, the team at Epic Watershapes can help identify whether it is a pool repair or resurfacing issue that is making things harder than they need to be.